How to test that a custom excepthook is installed correctly?

My app logs unhandled exceptions.

# app.py
import logging
import sys

logger = logging.getLogger(__name__)

def excepthook(exc_type, exc_value, traceback):
    exc_info = exc_type, exc_value, traceback
    if not issubclass(exc_type, (KeyboardInterrupt, SystemExit)):
        logger.error('Unhandled exception', exc_info=exc_info)
    sys.__excepthook__(*exc_info)

sys.excepthook = excepthook

def potato():
    logger.warning('about to die...')
    errorerrorerror

if __name__ == '__main__':
    potato()

These tests pass OK:

# test_app.py
import app
import pytest
import sys
from logging import WARNING, ERROR

def test_potato_raises():
    with pytest.raises(NameError):
        app.potato()

def test_excepthook_is_set():
    assert sys.excepthook is app.excepthook

# the caplog fixture is from `pip install pytest-logcapture`
def test_excepthook_logs(caplog):
    try:
        whatever
    except NameError as err:
        exc_info = type(err), err, err.__traceback__
    app.excepthook(*exc_info)
    assert caplog.record_tuples == [('app', ERROR, 'Unhandled exception')]
    [record] = caplog.records
    assert record.exc_info == exc_info

But I couldn't get a test of unhandled exceptions logging working:

def test_unhandled_exceptions_logged(caplog):
    try:
        app.potato()
    finally:
        assert caplog.record_tuples == [
            ('app', WARNING, 'about to die...'),
            ('app', ERROR, 'Unhandled Exception'),
        ]
        return  # return eats exception

What's wrong here? How can we actually trigger the app.excepthook from within a test?